WIRE - WHAT TYPE SHOULD I USE?
I’m often asked: “What’s the best wire to use for my stereo system, home theater,
etc.?” My answer is usually: “Spend as much as you can reasonably afford.” So,
this article is is aimed at the individual who is interested in getting excellent
results from their AV system without hocking the family farm.
In the professional world, there are several manufacturers of professional audio &
video cable. There are many more in the consumer market. Those companies in
the professional arena have always published detailed information on the
products they produce because they have to provide honest accurate product
information if they want to have a chance at being specified for an installation. On
the other hand, the consumer electronics market is like the wild west. The wary
consumer has to wade through all manner of invented terminology, unsupported
claims and ridiculous prices. Somewhere, between the bargain bin and the
paycheck per foot wire, is the affordable cable that will give you the best bang for
Solid or Stranded Wire?
The truth is: I don’t know. There are arguments for both. I have used both types
for almost every type of audio connection and I cannot hear or measure a
difference in the audio band of frequencies. However, it’s a scientific fact that as
the frequency of the signal increases, the electrons move towards the outer
surface of the conductor, affecting the current density and the alternating current
(AC) resistance. This is called the ‘Skin Effect.’ Skin Effect mostly comes into
play at radio frequencies and above so, it matters when it comes to interconnect
cable for video.
The jury is still out on it’s affect within the audio band. One counter for the
increased AC resistance caused by the Skin Effect is the ‘Litz’ wind which,
involves more than one strand of wire and one can find cable designed for audio
using this particular wind. So, that may be an argument for stranded wire. On the
other hand, the video cable that comes into your house has a solid conductor in
the center that carries, at least, half of the signal.
This is particularly important when it comes to speaker cable. Size refers to the
diameter of the conductor itself and is expressed as a gauge. The smaller the
gauge number, the larger the diameter of the conductor. Thus, 20 gauge wire is
considerably smaller in diameter than 10 gauge wire. Personally, I prefer 12
gauge or, even larger diameter wire for speaker cable. I’ve used several types,
sizes and brands and I have even specified name brands to avoid controversy.
I have done some testing on speaker wire (both listening and bench testing) and
the results have always shown the larger diameters are preferred. I will use lamp
cord for testing, but not for a permanent installation. Again: Keep all cables as
short as possible.
However, it’s a different story when it comes to interconnect cable for your
components. Wire gauge is generally not listed on the product and the thickness
of the cable is not a clue. My advice (again) is to buy the best
can reasonably afford and keep the cable lengths as short as possible between
components. Excessive cable lengths simply create a rat’s nest behind your
equipment and can lead to induced noise at any signal level, even at speaker
Only use gold plated connectors if your equipment has gold plated connectors.
Using gold plated connectors on nickel plated equipment connectors provides no
particular benefit. If one piece of equipment has gold plated connectors and the
equipment it connects to does not, it’s your call. You can connect gold plated
connectors to nickel plated connectors and vice-versa. No harm will come to your
components either way.
Oxygen Free Copper
Oxygen-free Copper (OFC) generally refers to a group of highly conductive
copper alloys that have been manufactured to reduce the level of oxygen content
in the copper to 0.001% or below.
Oxygen free wire and products have many scientific, industrial and commercial
applications. Audiophiles insist on its superior sonic properties although there is
little scientific evidence to support the claim.
We all know what happens to raw copper when it is left unprotected over time: It
turns green. The ‘green’ corrosion is somewhat unique to copper, brass or bronze
and is known as ‘Patina’ or ‘Verdigris.’ This type of corrosion can also happen to
poorly made wire, even though it is ‘supposedly’ sealed inside insulation. When
wire or the connectors attached to it corrodes, its conductive properties change
which will ultimately change the sound quality of your system. We tend to connect
an entertainment system together and then forget it. So, periodically, disconnect
all of the interconnect cables and re-connect them. The process of disconnecting
and reconnecting will tend to clean the connections. If you spot corrosion
anywhere in or on your interconnect cables, address it immediately. Corrosion
generally starts at the end or connector of a wire and works it’s way down the wire
until the whole thing is green. This may be the strongest argument for OFC wire
for your system.
Does this mean that the cables you purchase have to be Oxygen Free Copper?
Not necessarily, because lot’s of great recordings were made long before ‘Oxygen
free’ wire came into being. Good quality cable will have superior conductivity,
good connectors and last a very long time.
What about the cables that often come with new equipment? Think about it for a
second. Although it’s nice that the manufacturer provides the interconnect cables
that you may need, the cables themselves will, most likely, be the cheapest
cables that they can buy in bulk. I will often chop up these cables to make
temporary adapters. Otherwise, I donate them to the nearest thrift store.
So, in the end, purchase the best interconnect cable that you can afford and use
the largest gauge wire you can find (or, afford) between your power amp and your
© Corey Bailey
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